“Diana Vreeland”
Appeals
To More Than Fashionistas
Reviewed by Shirrel Rhoades
In
the movie “To Wong Foo, Thanks for Everything! Julie Newmar,” the Patrick
Swayze drag queen character hands a copy of Diana Vreeland’s autobiography to a
thrift-store clerk and tells him to “commit sections to memory.”
Not
bad advice for any budding fashionista.
Vreeland
served as fashion editor at both Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue.
I
saw her once when she was later working as consultant to the Costume Institute
of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. A slender woman with great posture, she was
the epitome of her dictum, “If you had a bump on your nose, it made no
difference so long as you had a marvelous body and good carriage.”
She
helped define fashion of the ‘60s – a period that she termed “Youthquake.”
Her
story is told in a documentary – “Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel” –
currently showing at the Tropic Cinema.
Born in Paris in 1903 to an
American socialite mother and British father, young Diana Dalziel enjoyed a
life of privilege. With the outbreak of World War I, her family moved to New
York where they were accepted into high society. However, she remained a party
girl until marrying banker Thomas Vreeland.
Joining Harper’s Bazaar in
1937, she wrote a popular column called “Why Don’t You…?” And later, during her
nine tumultuous years as editor-in-chief at Vogue, she energized one of the
greatest fashion movements of the last 50 years.
Diana
Vreeland (1903 to 1989) was sometimes called the High Priestess of Fashion. She
set the pace for the Grace Mirbellas and Glenda Baileys and Anna Wintours that
followed. People either loved her or hated her.
Directed
and produced by her granddaughter-in-law, Lisa Immordino Vreeland, along with Brent-Jorgen Perlmutt and Frédéric Tcheng, this documentary relies on archival film clips to allow Diana
Vreeland to tell the story in her own words.
Immordino Vreeland came across her husband’s
grandmother’s diaries in a collection at the New York Public Library. “At
certain periods, she was talking about the need to stand out,” says the
director. “She would write, aged 12: ‘I need to be original.’ She knew she had
to do something special.”
And
she did. As Immordino Vreeland puts it,
“Diana was a feminist without realizing it.”
You’ll encounter many
famous faces in this film, from Anjelica
Huston to Lauren Hutton. But Vogue’s
current editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and Andre Leon Talley, who worked
for Vreeland at the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute, are conspicuously absent.
Talley insisted that a well-known fashion scholar interview him, so the
directors decided to pass him by. And when he later requested a screener after
the movie played Tribeca, “We let him know he could buy a ticket like everybody
else.”
“Diana
Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel” has been called an “acidic and gossipy cocktail.”
Drink
up.
srhoades@aol.com
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